Learn

What you're
looking at.

A small, honest knowledge base — origins, patterns, terms, care. Drawn from twenty-plus years at the bench. Read in any order; come back when a stone surprises you.

We cannot see our reflection in running water.
It is only in still water that we can see.
Rough Ethiopian Welo opal in the cutter's fingers — vivid blue and purple play-of-color.

Where opals come from

Origins

Lightning Ridge

New South Wales, Australia

Black opal

The dark body that makes color shout — N1–N4 on the body-tone scale

The most prized opal field in the world. Mined from sandstone seams, the dark potch behind the color is what gives Lightning Ridge its electric quality. A vivid green-blue flash on a true black body is what every cutter dreams about.

Coober Pedy

South Australia

White / crystal opal

Bright play-of-color on a light body — clean, classical opal

The world's biggest source of white opal. Lighter body, but the play-of-color can be just as vivid as Lightning Ridge — sometimes more. Coober Pedy stones are how most people picture an opal: milky background, rainbow inside.

Yowah & Koroit

Queensland, Australia

Boulder opal in ironstone

Opal pockets inside ironstone — sculptural, one-of-one

Boulder opal sits as veins and pockets inside dark ironstone matrix. Yowah Nuts are little geode-like spheres with color in the middle. Every piece is asymmetric and impossible to repeat — cutting around the color is its own art.

Welo (Wollo)

Wollo Province, Ethiopia

Hydrophane crystal opal

Honeycomb pattern, neon flash, drinks water (hydrophane)

Discovered in 2008 and reshaped the opal world. Highly transparent crystal bodies with vivid neon flash — often green, blue, red — sometimes in the rare honeycomb cellular pattern. Welo is hydrophane: it absorbs water and changes appearance. Always dry thoroughly before storing.

Mexican Fire Opal

Querétaro & Jalisco, Mexico

Translucent orange to red

Body color IS the fire — no play-of-color required

Different beast: a fire opal's value is its translucent body color, deep orange to ruby red. Some Mexican stones also carry a play-of-color, but the prized look is a clean, glowing ember held up to light. Faceted Mexican fire is a stone of its own kind.

Opalized Fossil & Wood

Australia / Indonesia / USA

Mineral replacement — bones, shells, wood

When silica replaced the original organic structure

Sometimes opal grows where something used to be — a bone, a clam, a tree trunk. The original organic material is gone and the silica took its place, sometimes carrying play-of-color, sometimes not. A common-opal fossil with sand and cracks is still a 60-million-year-old wood replaced by mineral. That's worth holding.

How color arranges itself

Patterns

Pinfire

common

Many tiny pinpoint flashes, like static color. Usually the first pattern beginners notice.

Broad flash

common

Large patches of single color sweep across the face when tilted. Bright, easy to read.

Rolling flash

uncommon

Color moves as a wave across the stone with the smallest tilt. The trick is the angle.

Floral / mossy

uncommon

Irregular organic shapes — botanical, almost lichen-like. No two are alike.

Picture / scenic

rare

Color arranges into image-like inclusions: faces, landscapes, animals. Buyer-dependent.

Honeycomb

rare

A hexagonal cellular grid of color, almost only found in Welo crystal opal. A cutter may never see one in a lifetime.

Cathedral

rare

Vertical column-like structures of color rising through the stone.

Harlequin

extremely rare

Sharp angular blocks of color of roughly equal size, like stained glass. The most-prized pattern in the world.

Read the listings without guessing

Glossary

Play-of-color
The spectral light show in precious opal. Caused by silica spheres of just the right size scattering light.
Body tone
Background darkness, N1 (jet black) to N9 (pure white). Darker bodies make color shout louder.
Brightness
How vivid the color is, on a scale B1–B7 (B7 = brightest). Independent of body tone.
Fire
In precious opal: another word for play-of-color. In fire opal: the warm orange-red body color itself.
Flash
A broad swath of single color that moves with the stone's angle.
Pinfire
Tiny, dense pinpoint dots of color across the face.
Crystal opal
Highly transparent body, with play-of-color floating in 3D inside the stone.
Black opal
Precious opal on a dark body tone (N1–N4). Lightning Ridge is the classic source.
Boulder opal
Color forms as veins inside ironstone matrix — the matrix is left as the back of the stone.
Doublet / triplet
An assembled stone: thin opal slice on a black backing (doublet), with a crystal cap on top (triplet). Lower cost, more care.
Hydrophane
An opal that absorbs water — common in Ethiopian Welo. Soaks up and changes appearance; must be dried before storing.
Potch
Common opal — silica without play-of-color. Acts as the dark canvas behind precious opal.
Cabochon (cab)
A polished dome cut, the most common opal cut. Maximizes the visible play-of-color face.
Freeform
An organic, non-geometric cut that follows the stone's natural shape. Saves material, often more interesting.

So they last another lifetime

Care

Skip the ultrasonic

Vibration cleaners can crack opal, especially Welo. Use a soft damp cloth — that's it.

Dry water-loving stones

Ethiopian Welo is hydrophane: it drinks water and goes translucent for hours. Pat dry, let air-dry on a soft cloth for 24h before storing.

Keep them out of dry heat

Direct sun, car dashboards, hair-dryer range — sudden dry heat can craze opal. Store away from radiators.

Protect in rings

Opal sits around 5.5–6.5 on Mohs. If you wear it on your hand, choose a bezel setting and take it off before manual work.

Re-hydrate doublets carefully

Doublets and triplets are glued — don't soak. A damp cloth wipe is the safe move.

Store separately

Harder stones (diamond, sapphire) will scratch opal. Keep it in its own pouch or felt-lined box.

Where the rough actually comes from

Sourcing & ethics

  • Rough is bought directly from miners — no broker chain.
  • Ethiopian Welo material goes through verification to confirm the rough was mined by the mine's owners and correctly exported out of Ethiopia.
  • Every cabochon and freeform is cut by hand at the bench in Santa Cruz, CA.
  • Listings disclose inclusions, sand, cracks, and matrix honestly — the credibility lives in that.

Ready to look at stones

See the catalog
11 sections from cabs to opalized petrified wood, live from Etsy.
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